Sunday 11 May

The journey to Leon was by air and then by train across the plains of Spain.

The historic cathedral town of Leon is notable for its typically Spanish architecture. It is so refreshing for those of us who only experience of Spain is the Costa del Sol!

We went to Pentecost Mass in the cathedral followed by a  meal of home cooked food in a local restaurant.

The hostel where stayed was a monastery - very basic but adequate

Monday 12 May

Our first day of walking. 20 miles to Hospital Orbigo.  it was not the most exhilerating of days. Leaviing Leon via industrial estates, we had a tedious walk, which was mainly on flat ground, with a few inclines. Contrary to the forecast, the weather was sunny, and nearly hot as Northampton!

Hospital Orbigo itself is lovely village, with a distinct Spanish feel. A few days later and could have witnessed a pageant of jousting!

The hostel was very comfortable with excellent  facilities. We have to get used to mixed dormitories! 

Tuesday 13 May

The walk to Murias was shorter than advertised - only 13 miles. After a more interesring country walk we came to Astorga - a small city once famous for chocolate. The cathedral was closed, but we browsed the market before lunch, and the walk to Murias was short  . The weather was changeable - rainware being put on, and taken off, at regular intervals.

 Wednesday 14 May

The walk from Murias to Foncebadon was one of the most rewarding days of the pilgrimage. It began with a gentle walk in the sunshine through Santa Catalina, and El Ganzo, two sleepy spanish villages - to Rabanal - a small town set on a hill. The English Confraterity of St James has a refuge there. But that was not our stop for the night. After lunch at a café, we had a long 6km pull uphill to Foncebadon. At the Convent refuge it was hardly credible that we were higher than Ben Nevis! 

Thursday 15 May

We left early for a moving part of the pilgimage. Cruz de Ferro is a cross at the highest point of the pilgimage, 1506 feet. Each pilgrim brings a pebble from home to place at the foot of the cross. This symbolises leaving troubles there before moving on to resurrection. The five of us had a moving service there before starting the descent to Ponferada. The weather was wet and miserable, and quite treachorous over the scree covered path. 

Ponferada is small city with connections to the Knights Templar, a mix of ancient and modern. We stayed at the refuge of San Nicholas de Flue  ,where we witnessed a pilgrim family of parents and two children arrive, complete with two donkeys! 

Friday 16 May

Leaving Ponferada early in the morning , our pilgrim passports being stamped by a policewoman complete with gun in holster, we had a much better day's walk, initially under cloud which broke up into a warm sunny day. We stopped for breakfast after 7km, then lunch another 7km further on at Cacebelos. This was followed by another 7km walk through vineyards to Villefranca de Bierzo, a quaint mountain village, a holy place with 10 different churchess! We have long 20 mile walk to look forward to tomorrow but with the luxury of our rucksacks being taken ahead of us!  

Saturday 17 May

The name of the hostel director at Villa Franca is Jesus! Quite apt for someone who arranges for our burdens to be carried! Free of our rucksacks, we walked for 15 miles up a beautiful valley, following the river, the beauty being marred by excessive road building. The weather was mainly sunshine but there were a few stops to put waterproofs on or off.

After a welcome break in the village, we found out why our burdens were light that day. We had a steep relentless climb - 4 miles to O Cebreiro. Taking our time, we enjoyed the thrilling scenery over hills and looking back.

Arriving in O Cebreiro, we found a village with 360 degree stunning view, which we enjoyed until the rain set in. The other surprise was a modern hostel well equipped. 

Sunday 18 May

Rucksacks on again today! Fortunately, today was a shorter day. Most of it was downhill through some typical Spanish villages. It is noticeable that these villages are not suburban, but remain very traditional and rural. We arrived at Triastecela in time to book in to a comfortable hostel, before going to special Pilgrim Mass in the local church. The priest was quite a character as he included all the nationalities present. This culminated with Claire taking part in the blessing in English . 

Monday 19 May

Leaving Triastecela, we left the mountains behind us - but not all the climbing! The walk to Sarria was a short one - 12 miles. Enjoying some attractive countryside, we arrived early afternoon. This gave time to do any urgent shopping. Mine was to buy a new rucksack, as my old one had seen the best of days! 

Tuesday 20 May

This was the hardest day of all on a hot day! The first 13 miles were fine, with good views. The last 7 miles were relentlessly uphill,l with our rucksacks this time! After a 13 hour day we arrived at Ventas exhausted. All that could be done was eat & bed!

 Wednesday 21 May

A much better day. 17 miles but no real hard work! We enjoyed some views and were encouraged by half kilometre stones counting down the distance to Santiago. Arriving here at Milede, it is good to see we have only 30 miles to go. The end is in sight! 

Thursday 22 May

The walk to St Irene began well. Clear skies and sunshine put a spring into our step as we walked through the rolling countryside as we came closer & closer to Santiago. All changed in mid-afternoon as clouds rolled in. Drizzle turned to torrential rain & slowed our progress. We arrived late at our hostel to find our pre-booked beds had been re-allocated! Desperate measures meant we had to split into two groups & go to the only available hostels to dry out & get to bed!

 Friday 23 May

With  Santiago not far away, our goal was in sight! The weather was only a little better than the night before. We made steady progress through mainly woodland. We arrived on the outskirts of Santiago to be greeted by thunder & lightening! What a reception. Del has a phobia of thunder. Fortunately, we found an underpass under which to shelter until the storm passed over. We knew we were nearly there, but the path seemed to go on and on. Eventually we arrived at the excellent hostel at Monte del Gozo. We are now well showered, laundry done. Tomorrow we have a mere 2 1/2 miles to Santiago Cathedral for the conclusion of our pilgrimage: the Pilgrim Mass at midday.

 Saturday 24 May.

At last, the end of our walk is in sight, only 2½ miles to go.   We set off in good spirits downhill into Santiago.  The last mile or so always seems to be the longest!  We walked through the modern suburbs of Santiago, waiting for a glimpse of the cathedral which, although close, was tantalisingly out of sight.  Eventually, we arrived at the walls of the ancient city and, before the last few hundred yards to the cathedral, were able to leave our rucksacks at the hotel where would spend the next night.

Making our way through the old city, past the busy market and the palaces and halls, eventually we arrived at the cathedral – mission accomplished.  We were in plenty of time for the midday Pilgrim Mass so souvenir shopping was in order and time to sit in a café for a coffee, sending texts round to family & friends to announce our arrival.

The Pilgrim Mass at 12 noon was a moving experience.  The cathedral was packed out with pilgrims who had come by foot, bicycle and even coach!  Tim accepted the invitation to concelebrate with one of the canons and several other priests who had made the pilgrimage.  At the conclusion of the mass, we had the spectacular sight of the giant thurible (incense burner) being stoked with charcoal & incense.  It is so big that it takes eight men to swing it from the south transept to the north on a rope about 40ft long.  It was breathtaking!

After the mass we went next door to show proof that  we had walked the distance in order for each of us to receive a Compostela – the certificate of completion of the Camino de Santiago.  All that was left was a day’s sightseeing before flying back home on 28^th May. 

We all thoroughly enjoyed the whole pilgrimage.  It was hard work and, at times challenging, but the experience of real pilgrimage, going on a holy journey, and the overwhelming sense of achievement made it all worth it.